The Train Between Lima and Huancayo
Lima and Huancayo: A truly exceptional train
The Huancayo region is home to numerous mines. To transport various minerals, a railway line was built during the 19th century. The challenge was immense, requiring a train to traverse steep mountains. An engineer rose to the challenge by claiming that wherever llamas could pass, a train could follow. After years of construction during which countless workers lost their lives, the line connecting Huancayo to Lima finally opened. With the arrival of trucks in the second half of the twentieth century, interest in the railway declined to the point of near extinction. However, the train has gained considerable appeal for tourism, and the line has since been restored to offer travelers a unique experience aboard what has become a legendary train.
A train like no other
Building a train through such a route seemed impossible, and yet… It must cross no fewer than 58 bridges, some with evocative names like the Devil's Bridge or the Bridge of Death, 69 tunnels carved into the mountain itself, and 1,154 curves. Since some curves are impossible to navigate, the train executes zigzags instead. The locomotive must repeatedly change position, alternating between the front and rear of the train. The locomotive sometimes even performs a rotation to change direction. Twelve hours are required to cover the 335 kilometers of track, making this train arguably one of the slowest in the world, but also one of the most incredible. It even inspired Hergé in his comic book Tintin and the Temple of the Sun, faithfully reproducing the train of that era and certain sections of the route.
An incredible journey
If you depart from Lima, the journey will begin with several hours of slow ascent, taking you from sea level to more than 4,800 meters altitude (higher than Mont Blanc), making this train the second highest in the world. The landscapes are initially quite monotonous, dominated by desert mountains occasionally enlivened by small villages. However, gradually the scenery transforms and vegetation appears. The stop at Ticlio (the world's highest railway station at 4,818 meters altitude) marks a turning point. You can take advantage of this stop to descend from the train and take some photos, but be careful as at this altitude, oxygen becomes scarce quickly and altitude sickness lurks.
Magnificent landscapes
From this point on, keep your camera ready as the rest of the journey is spectacular. It is a long descent with a gentle slope through the high Andean plateaus. Vegetation becomes abundant. You will pass through vast stretches with no apparent signs of human life, where only the train disturbs herds of llamas and vicuñas. You will also traverse various small villages and admire the splendor of the Andes mountain range, with some snow-capped peaks.
Practical information about the Lima/Huancayo train
Given the extreme difficulty of the route, very few trips are operated. The train generally runs only twice a month between April and November. The era of freight transport is long past, and the carriages now offer excellent comfort. Two classes are available. Tourist class offers superior comfort with wide seats, plenty of legroom, and an open-air bar wagon, ideal for taking photos and enjoying an excellent experience. Expect approximately 350 soles for a round trip (around 100 euros) and 195 euros for a one-way ticket in tourist class. The second class is not reserved exclusively for Peruvians, and you can also, if your budget doesn't allow for tourist class, take second class at the more affordable price of 235 soles round trip and 120 soles one-way. Note that breakfast and lunch are served on board, as well as beverages. For those wishing to reach Cusco in an original way, the train offers an excellent means to feast your eyes. The train departs from Lima's central station in the historic center.
